Francesca Cottone: Italian Tailoring Meets Seoul’s Urban Pulse

Words by Maggie Arandela-Romano 

Seoul Fashion Week is where cultures collide, aesthetics converse, and designers push the dialogue forward.

Once again, Milan Loves Seoul bridges two worlds effortlessly — Asia and Europe, East and West.

This season from Milan Loves Seoul’s runway, Italian designer Francesca Cottone brought her vision of modern tailoring back to Korea, with CTRL – Control, a collection balancing strength and softness, tradition and urban energy. Known for dressing Hollywood stars and Korean celebrities alike, Cottone is carving out a place where Made in Italy embraces a truly global sensibility.

We sat down with her during Seoul Fashion Week to talk about her brand’s DNA, her latest collection, and the cross-cultural exchanges shaping her career.

Q&A with Francesca Cottone

Francesca, welcome to Seoul Fashion Week. How does it feel to present your collection here, in one of the most dynamic fashion capitals?

Thank you so much! It is truly an honour to be back here and present my new collection at Seoul Fashion Week. I feel a mix of excitement, nerves, and curiosity, but above all happiness for the opportunity to be supported by Milan Loves Seoul, and I am grateful for the doors it could open. Seoul is a city where urban energy and refined aesthetics meet, a thousand different styles intertwining and it is incredibly inspiring to bring my vision of Made in Italy into such a dynamic context.

Your roots are Italian, and your designs carry a strong identity. How would you describe the essence of Francesca Cottone as a brand?

The brand was born from a desire to renew Italian tailoring with a fresh, modern sensibility. Since 2020, I have been working on essential lines, sartorial construction, and a cosmopolitan sensitivity that focuses on outerwear, tailoring, and often genderless silhouettes.

Tell us about the collection you’re presenting in Seoul. What inspired it, and what story are you telling on the runway?

“CTRL – Control” collection was born as a deep breath between two worlds, where sharp tailoring meets the raw pulse of urban life.It moves between strength and softness, confidence and instinct — bold lines, dynamic silhouettes, and a palette shifting from delicate pastels to deep, saturated tones. Inspired by preppy culture and early 2000s vibes, I reworked these influences through a modern, emotional lens, mixing the bold energy of Korean street style with the precision of Italian craftsmanship. I used to say “CTRL is an attitude: personal, fearless, and free” and I hope people can enjoy it!

Model Bomin wearing blue blazer and white boots Francesca Cottone
Model BOMIN
Milan Loves Seoul, photos by Rosario Multari

Your pieces balance strength and softness. How do you translate that duality into fabrics, shapes, and tailoring?

For me, strength and softness come from the mix of influences that shape my creative process. This variety naturally translates into contrasts in the collection: sharp tailoring, bold lines, structured shoulders, rigid fabrics, and solid colors coexist with soft shirts and fresh, playful patterns. This creates a dynamic and fluid dialogue between fabrics, shapes, and colors. I like to embrace this duality without limiting myself, because I think it gives the collection both energy and sensitivity.

Model Gunwoo wearing ivory double-breasted suit Francesca Cottone
Model GUNWOO
Milan Loves Seoul, photos by Rosario Multari

In your creative process, do you start with a narrative, a mood, or a material?

I usually don’t follow a strict scheme when approaching a collection. I often let myself be guided by what my mind imagines and processes day by day. Visual support is fundamental, so step by step creating a mood board is essential for me. In my studio, I have a polystyrene wall where every time I find an inspiration, a photo, a phrase, a material, I print it out and pin it there. Gradually, bit by bit, the whole concept starts to take shape.

You have dressed Hollywood personalities, Korean actors, and high-profile celebrities. What does it mean to see your work worn on such global stages?

Yes, it’s incredibly rewarding to see my designs embraced on such prestigious platforms. Every collaboration feels like a sign of appreciation to me: knowing that they choose me over other big names makes me proud of my work, and it validates the fusion of Italian craftsmanship and global influences that define my brand.

Is there a particular moment or client that felt like a turning point for your career?

Nope, I’m still waiting (she laughs) Just joking. An important moment was when I had the opportunity to create a capsule collection for actors in a TV commercial, Renault Clio Duel, during my time at Istituto Marangoni. It was a contest with 20 participants, and I won. This experience marked the beginning of my journey in fashion design and ignited my passion for creating pieces that resonate with individuals on a personal level.

Korean actors and entertainers are known for their strong sense of style. How do you approach dressing them compared to Hollywood figures?

I would say that I don’t notice huge differences: Made in Italy has always been appreciated, and I’m proud that my brand is sought after both in Korea and in Los Angeles, especially for important red carpets where elegance, style, and impact are required. What I do notice with Korean talents is their meticulous attention to detail, and I couldn’t be happier, because I am always focused on the details as well.

Fashion is also about cultural exchange. What do you take from presenting in Seoul with Milan Loves Seoul, and what do you hope Korean audiences see in your work?

Presenting in Seoul with Milan Loves Seoul, is a wonderful opportunity for cultural exchange. I take inspiration from the city’s energy, its vibrant street style, and the way fashion interacts with everyday life here. I hope that Korean audiences see in my work the blend of Italian craftsmanship and contemporary sensibility, a balance between tradition and modernity, elegance with a fresh and playful touch.

Do you notice differences in how fashion is received in Asia versus Europe or Hollywood?

Fashion is appreciated everywhere, but I do notice some subtle differences. In my opinion, in Asia there is often a strong focus on quality and on exploring new designs and concepts, with minimal and conceptual structures, and playful, fun, and experimental influences for younger audiences. In Europe, I think the focus is more on classic and chic elegance. Hollywood? I believe they embody the true sense of iconic and glamorous style! I absolutely love all these cultural nuances. Understanding them allows me to create pieces that resonate with different audiences while keeping the essence of my brand intact.

What’s next for Francesca Cottone after Seoul? Are there collaborations or projects you can share with us?

After such an important trip full of inspiration and ideas, I’ll have a lot to reflect on and work through for the new winter collection, which I’m excited to start developing. But what I can share with you, and what I’m happy and proud about, is that I won the Fiera Milano award this edition of MLS! This means I’ll be participating in the Milano Fashion & Jewels fair, which will take place over three days in February, right before Fashion Week. There will be a dedicated area for the Milan Loves Seoul project alongside two other Korean designers, so I’m so proud! Also, if all goes well, and fingers crossed, there will be another news before the end of the year, but I’m not ready to reveal details just yet.

Designer Francesca Cottone on runway after show
Francesca Cottone
Milan Loves Seoul, photos by Rosario Multari

If you could describe your vision for the future of your brand in one sentence, what would it be?

If I had to sum up the future of my brand in one sentence, it would be: “There will always be highs and lows, but the goal is to bring Italian tailoring into the future with contemporary, inclusive, and internationally inspired design, always with personality and love.”

Bridging Cultures, Defining Herself

At Seoul Fashion Week, Francesca Cottone’s CTRL – Control captured both sides of her vision: sharp tailoring with sensitivity, tradition infused with modern street energy. 

Her return to Seoul reflects not only her confidence as a designer, but also her commitment to dialogue between cultures and aesthetics. 

With milestones ahead in Milan and beyond, she continues to build a brand that is inclusive, international, and unapologetically personal.

Francesca is no longer just a promise of Made in Italy — she’s become its symbol in her own right.

And in her evolution, a quiet echo remains: what is your #HaveYouGotYours?

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