Words by Isabel Seesarun
Edited by Valerie Aitova
This season of Emily in Paris’s fashion feels marginally different. Everything feels more intentional, more sophisticated. That indescribable je ne sais quoi, but this time with an Italian twist. Set against the streets of Rome and Paris, the usual drama returns to our screens with each character finding themselves enthralled in love triangles, chaos and new perspectives – and their clothes reflect that. The characters use fashion as a mode of reinvention, expressing who they are and who they aspire to be. With every episode, they go through several of these reinventions from their Roman getaway, to their return to Paris, and of course, through their emotions. Costume designer Marylin Fitoussi is behind the show’s iconic looks and has been since the very first season. The effortless yet experimental Parisian aesthetic is reimagined into an elegant Roman wardrobe.
The fifth season starts with Emily more grounded in who she is. A new city, a new romance, and a new style. She reinvents herself with outfits that are still bold but slightly pared back. She becomes confident in herself and no longer needs extremely bright colours to demand attention, specifically from the men in her life. Happy in her new relationship, warmer neutrals slowly start to take over each garment. However, when she occasionally reverts back to pops of colour – a visual tug to her old life and forgotten feelings – through bright, patterned pieces, it’s refined.
Inspired by black and white 1950s Italian cinema, Emily pays homage to stars like Sophia Loren and Silvana Mangano through black and white coordinated sets, polka dot patterns and striped prints. Translating the icons’ classic allure of Italian beauty and elegance into the contemporary Roman styling of the show. It would be impossible to ignore one of the main characters of the season, Emily’s chic new bob. It elevates each and every one of her looks whether straightened to emphasise the blunt cut or when styled in waves, making her the epitome of elegance. Of course we’ve seen Emily in Rome in the fourth season, but this time around, the silhouettes are less juvenile, and dramatically structured garments are replaced by sleeker, free flowing shapes and intentional styling. A push and pull between Paris and Rome, her Italian wardrobe still manages to accomplish the effortless Parisian aesthetic she has long tried to emanate.
Sylvie has always taken a minimalist’s approach but ventures out of her comfort zone. Smitten by an old friend while in Rome, she abandons her usual sophisticated style and neutral shades, swapping them out for daring looks like magenta and red coloured one shoulder gowns or one unforgettable black, nude corseted dress. This isn’t the only risk she takes, as she also experiments with brighter colours that you’d expect to find in Emily like vibrant hues of orange and contrasting ocean blues. Once back in Paris and back to reality, the Roman influence is still present, elevated yet made intriguing with deeper colours and varied fabrics.
Mindy, on the other hand, never strays from her maximalist choices. As indecisive as her love life, everything she wears is a statement. From her costumes, to her jewellery and even her hair which is often elaborately pinned up. Reflecting her relationship dilemma, her dresses are romantically draped and she is seen wearing beads several times. She embraces one of the main Italian inspired styles in the season with large floral motifs and patterns but still stays true to herself, as both her Parisian and Roman wardrobe reflect her creativity rather than completely conforming to local aesthetics. Mindy’s refusal to fully adapt to her surroundings in contrast to Emily’s constant evolution, shows she is more comfortable in herself, her personal style and values despite where she may be.
Exact embodiments of the two cities are Emily’s love interests, Marcello and Gabriel. The love interests represent the two aesthetics she aspires to emulate or perhaps serve as the young American’s romanticisation of each place. The Italian bachelor is dressed in the finest tailored suits that are simplistic but elegant. Mostly in earthy, warm tones, coincidentally matching Emily’s new and improved style. Gabriel, the show’s beloved French chef, on the other hand returns in very few episodes but his makeover cannot be ignored. His revamped look showcases blonde highlights in his hair, an incredibly tanned complexion presumably from his new nomadic life and he wears a more adventurous colour scheme than previous seasons, one might say faintly resembling Marcello.
As always we were left with a cliffhanger that will undoubtedly frustrate fans, but it’s safe to say that wherever Emily and all the characters find themselves next, the show will continue to revisit Italian and French aesthetics as they evolve. In a way, this evolution through fashion becomes more important than the plot, as it better represents the character’s mindset and emotional development without needing to say anything.
Every single garment contributes to the broader narrative of the show’s fifth season.
