Caruso’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, designed by the visionary Korean designer Kwang Hyo Chang, unfurled like an abstract painting brought to life, a carefully curated blend of elegance and avant-garde daring. Since its launch in 1987, the South Korea-based menswear brand has consistently pushed the boundaries of design, and this collection was no exception. From the moment the models stepped onto the runway, it was clear that this was more than just a fashion show — it was an immersive experience, a statement of how fashion can seamlessly blend art and expression. Each piece felt as though it were a brushstroke, deliberate yet fluid, contributing to a larger composition that invited the audience to engage with a new vision of modernity.
The collection opened with an air of quiet sophistication. Tailored suits in soft pinks, teals, and neutrals dominated the first looks, draped across the models in ways that evoked the purity of form found in Constantin Brancusi’s sculptures. There was a clear sense of precision in the cut and structure of each garment, as though Caruso were paying homage to the clean, essential lines that Brancusi often explored in his work. The oversized blazers and wide-legged trousers embodied a sense of effortless control, creating a dialogue between the wearer and the space they occupied. Much like Brancusi’s art, these pieces were deceptively simple, their minimalist aesthetics revealing a deep understanding of balance and proportion.
Photo by Yumi Kim
As the models glided down the runway, their silhouettes seemed to echo the architecture surrounding them. The muted palette of the early looks lent a sense of serenity, their structured lines reminiscent of modernist design principles. The garments, however, did not simply rest on the body — they moved with it, accentuating the natural flow of movement. This careful attention to both form and fluidity created a dynamic tension, much like the relationship between structure and space in architecture. There was a quiet power in these designs, as though they were inviting the audience to consider the nuances of restraint and understatement.
Then, as if following the natural arc of an evolving artwork, the collection shifted. A bold departure from the initial quietude emerged, as the models began to wear pieces that played with gender fluidity and subverted traditional expectations. One look — a sleeveless top paired with a black, kilt-like skirt — felt as though it had been inspired by Pablo Picasso’s Cubist approach to form, where boundaries are blurred and perspectives are fragmented. Caruso’s SS2025 collection seemed to revel in this breaking of conventions, where menswear and womenswear melded into a cohesive narrative. This moment of playful disruption hinted at the designer’s deeper intent: to challenge the rigid norms of fashion and invite a more liberated, creative approach to self-expression.
Glossy boots and unexpected accessories added to this sense of rebellion, offering a nod to street style while still rooted in high fashion’s precision. This was not a collection afraid to take risks, much like Picasso was unafraid to deconstruct and reshape the world around him. The result was a striking harmony between the bold and the controlled, where fluidity met structure, and where tradition was reimagined for a new era. It was clear that Caruso was inviting the audience to see fashion as more than just garments — but as an exploration of identity, constantly evolving.
As the show progressed, the colours became bolder, the silhouettes more daring. A model clad in a bright red tailored suit strode down the runway, her wide-brimmed hat adding a dramatic flair that demanded attention. Another model in a flowing blue ensemble moved with a quiet grace, the fabrics billowing around her in a way that contrasted with the sharp tailoring from earlier in the show. This shift felt like a transition from the understated elegance of Mark Rothko’s colour fields to the emotional intensity he is known for. The use of colour in Caruso’s SS2025 collection, like Rothko’s work, was not merely decorative but a powerful tool to evoke emotion and provoke thought.
The red and blue tones, striking in their simplicity, created moments of bold expression within the broader collection. These colours, much like Rothko’s, drew the eye and invited contemplation, their intensity punctuating the runway with moments of heightened emotion. The contrast between the earlier, muted tones and the final, vibrant looks felt like a narrative arc, where the collection journeyed from serenity to exuberance, from control to freedom.
As the show neared its conclusion and the final looks came down the runway, Woodkid’s “Run Boy Run” began to fill the space. The pulsating rhythm of the song mirrored the collection’s own progression — building in intensity, urging movement, and pushing toward a horizon yet to be reached. The models, now walking with a renewed sense of purpose, embodied this message of momentum and evolution. Caruso’s SS2025 collection, much like Woodkid’s anthem, was about breaking free from constraints and running headlong into the future, embracing change with open arms.
Photo by Yumi Kim
In its entirety, Caruso’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection was a testament to the transformative power of fashion. Drawing inspiration from the purity of Brancusi’s forms, the bold experimentation of Picasso, and the emotional resonance of Rothko’s colours, the collection navigated the intersections of art, identity, and expression. It was more than just clothing — it was a story, a statement, a vision of how fashion can evolve while remaining grounded in craftsmanship and artistry. Through these pieces, Caruso invited us all to see fashion as a canvas for self-expression, one that transcends boundaries and embraces the complexity of modern life.
Words by Gaziza Omirzak.
Designer Kwang Hyo Chang photo by Yumi Kim
