Words by Roman Pantaleion
“One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.” – Oscar Wilde
The very first Met Gala was held in 1948 and was established by Fashion Publicist Eleanor Lambert. At the time, the ticket cost was a mere $50, a sum that has grown to $75,000 a ticket as of 2024. By 1995, Anna Wintour presided over the annual fundraiser, and the theme was Haute Couture. Each year, the Gala raises over 8 figures for The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute.
The fundraiser marks the opening of the annual fashion exhibition. According to the Met’s website, this year’s predominant funding is provided by the Hobson/Lucas Family Foundation, Africa Fashion International, founded by Dr. Precious Moloi-Motsepe, and The Perry Foundation. This year’s theme celebrates Black tailoring and style throughout history, and no doubt you may just find a portrait of heavyweight boxing champion, Jack Johnson — recognized as one of the first sports stars to be considered very well dressed and intersected his style with attitude. Historians believe it was Jack Johnson’s style that influenced style within the Black community and that he was very much a Dandy.
“Dandyism offered Black people an opportunity to use clothing, gesture, irony, and wit to transform their given identities and imagine new ways of embodying political and social possibilities.” – Met Gala Website
The expression “Dude” used to mean a well-dressed duded-up gentleman, a Dandy, and in Gilded Age America, Evander Berry Wall was crowned their King.
“Being a “dandy” is generally thought to be more than just being a stylish dresser. There is attitude, perspective and perhaps even a sense of the revolutionary that ties many of history’s so-called dandies together.” – Carl Raymond, The Gilded Gentleman Podcast.
It is no surprise that Black American men took to this trend of being stylishly dressed and having a certain je ne sais quoi attitude to life — it allowed them, through their style, to define who they were and who they wanted to be. Over time, this style has morphed into a multitude of identities that can still be seen today — not only in Black culture, but the black culture that has created a global impact.
The author of Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity, Monica L. Miller, Professor of Africana Studies at Barnard University, inspired this year’s theme. She talked with The National Arts Club in January 2022 about her book, she proceeded to dedicate the talk to the late André Leon Talley who for her was one of the modern references for Dandyism and was a great inspiration to her.
Growing up in the early 2000’s I loved fashion. My mother was an aspiring designer, so style was something I was born with. Before I knew the term ‘Dandy’ I could easily fit the description. Gaining inspiration from rapper André 3000, Fonzworth Bentley, J. Alexander, Jay Manuel, June Ambrose and Grace Jones.
For me fashion was genderless, the juxtaposition between androgyny and masculinity; fashion and style. These artists were not only bold in their wardrobe choices, but in how they existed through life.
This year’s theme Superfine: Tailoring Black Style is absolutely necessary. Black artists have been influencing pop culture for decades.
The King of Rock ‘n’ Roll Elvis was heavily influenced by Black artists, not just musically, but with his style as well.
The Beatles, The Rolling Stones– so many huge icons have all gained inspiration from Black people. Black people are magic and most people in the world know, but are too afraid to admit it.
I’ve traveled the world and have seen it. Tokyo has an entire Hip-Hop community and shopping district selling the latest music and mimicing fashions they see their favourite Black artists wearing.
You can’t watch a foreign film without hearing Aretha Franklin, Nancy Wilson, or Black artists throughout. From the 1920s to present day, Black people have been serving looks like an all-you-can-eat buffet.
In 1763 Louisiana, in an effort to reduce the beauty of the free Creole women of colour, they incorporated the Tignon Law. The women were forced to cover their hair with rags and wraps. Rather than cry, they purchased the most beautiful fabrics and added feathers, jewels, and beadwork patterns to the head dresses, making them so popular that Empress Joséphine de Beauharnais, the first wife of Emperor Napoleon of France, started wearing them.
Fast forward to the Hip-Hop era of the 1980’s and 90’s when rapper Lil’ Kim was promoting designers in her music and rocking couture labels even white artists weren’t wearing. It is because of Lil’ Kim couture is widely available and now all boast ready to wear lines.
The Notorious K.I.M along with her counterparts in the Hip-Hop community expressed themselves with their clothing, creating a style and culture that inspired FuBu, Baby Phat, Sean John, Rocawear, Enyce and others. These rappers put Tommy Hilfger on the map.
As Lil’ Kim was rapping about Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Versace, Beyonce educated the masses on Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label whilst the Black female lead tv series ‘Girlfriends’ was putting the children on to Christian Louboutin’s in 2000.
I am excited to see the live event with so many of the cultures’ inspirations from past to present.
I’ll link a list of black designers around the world who are leaving their mark in the fashion industry but let me just name a few of my favourites who are killing the style game, some of which are still up and coming, but already making a huge impact.
Law Roach, best known for styling Zendaya and Celine Dione; we can be sure Law will be honoured at the Gala. Then we have Balmain designer Olivier Rousteing who started his career in 2003 as a creative director at Roberto Cavalli and in 2009 leaving to join Balmain where he preceded designer Christophe Decarnin as Creative Director at only 25-years-old. Since Olivier’s ascension Balmain’s resurgence into pop culture and annual sales are undeniable.
Expect to see stylists such as Jason Rembert (Issa Rae, Marsai Martin) in attendance. As well as a few of my favourite designers: Dapper Dan a legend in the American Black community who introduced high fashion to L.L. Cool J, Jay-Z, Salt-N-Pepa and Mike Tyson to name a few. He opened his boutique in 1982 on 125th street in Harlem between Madison and 5th avenue, specialising in selling Louis Vuitton, Fendi and Gucci due to their bold logo prints. Other designers I am hoping to see on the red carpet are Felisha ‘Fe’ Noel from Brooklyn whose brand’s motto is, “Eat well, travel often, and dress to inspire!”
French designer Stephane and co-creator of Chmps?! Parisse, dressing all of the R&B and Hip-Hop artists coming out of France, Laquan Smith who helms from Queens; his runway looks are fierce and bold and reminiscent of Madonna in the 80’s/90’s. Forbes said this about his designs:
“This new resurgence of New York glamour will uncover the inner vixen from exhibitionists to the everyday women.”
London native Carly Cushnie designs clothing and luxury interiors and has dressed First Lady Michelle Obama, Beyonce and Rihanna amongst others. Romeo Hunte who created his line in 2014, no doubt bringing inspiration from his upbringing in Brooklyn, his line brings together edge and sophistication and was sealed once celebrities such as Zendaya, Beyonce and Lewis Hamilton started wearing his designs.
Canadian designer Aurora James, who used her fashion to share a political voice and Telfar Clemens whose bags are so popular, my publicist friend in Cape Town, South Africa was demanding I send him one for his birthday.
Telfar redefined luxury by being inclusive, their slogan after all is, “it’s not for you—it’s for everyone.”
Last but certainly not least I would be remiss to not mention Ann Lowe, the black seamstress who designed Jackie Bouvier Kennedy Onassis’s silk taffeta wedding dress to marry John F. Kennedy and Elizabeth Keckley who was a seamstress and activist and the personal dressmaker to Mary Todd Lincoln. That’s right, she was designing gowns when Lincoln was making proclamations. This year’s Met Gala will be more fabulous than any Gala it’s held before simply because it will now be seasoned.
The Gala, although a fundraising event, is also a big party with the most popular celebrities of the time honouring designers, stylists and tailors.
“This exhibition explores dandyism as both a pronouncement and a provocation.” – Monica Miller.
So, expect to see a sea of Black faces and possibly more men in attendance this year than any other in Met Gala history.
This year’s Met Gala will be a mix of Beyonce’s ‘Homecoming’ special, Oprah’s ‘Legends Ball’ and regality.
When you tune in to the live event look for the occasional head nod and familial hugs. That space will be one not only of celebration, but a moment to recognize that all these faces that descend from the Diaspora have contributed something to this planet that will forever leave an imprint.
The Gala can be viewed on Vogue’s live stream on their website or YouTube channel, allowing viewers a glimpse into this soon-to-be historical event.
2025’s Met Gala celebrating black tailors, designers and stylists although long overdue– in this political climate seems to be right on time.
According to Vogue, this year the co-chairs are Pharrell Williams, actor Colman Domingo, Formula One driver Lewis Hamilton, musician A$AP Rocky and Anna Wintour, with basketball star Lebron James acting as honorary co-chair.
The Met has also announced this year’s host committee, which includes, André 3000, Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, Grace Wales Bonner, Simone Biles and Jonathan Owens, Jordan Casteel, Dapper Dan, Doechii, Ayo Edebiri, Edward Enninful, Jeremy O Harris, Branden Jacobs-Jenkins, Rashid Johnson, Regina King, Spike Lee and Tonya Lewis Lee, Audra McDonald, Janelle Monáe, Jeremy Pope, Angel Reese, Sha’Carri Richardson, Olivier Rousteing, Tyla, Usher and Kara Walker.
